Surfing

Geoff McCoy, one of the world's most innovative and creative surfboard shapers, passed away at home in Byron Bay, Australia, at the age of 79 after complications following a heart attack.

The pioneer of the shortboard revolution was born in 1944 in Gosford, New South Wales.

As a youngster, the son of a farmer and the Killcare Surf Club captain was a talented horseman.

Geoff started surfing at age 14 during his school holidays at Avoca Beach.

He shaped his first boards at 17 for Bennett Surfboards and Keyo Surfboards after concluding a five-year apprenticeship in wood and metal pattern making.

He was also the co-founder of M&M Surfboards.

In the 1970s, the Australian set up his own business, McCoy Surfboards, in Brookvale, a Sydney suburb.

Ray Richards, the father of world surfing champion Mark Richards, encouraged him to do so and ordered the shaper's first ten creations.

In just half a year, the McCoy factory produced 65 boards weekly.

It marked a vibrant era as Geoff crafted boards for numerous top surfers and embarked on his inaugural journey to Hawaii.

In 1978, Geoff dedicated a year to California, establishing McCoy USA and collaborating with Jeff Hakman on design innovations.

By then, McCoy had shifted his factory to Avoca Beach on the NSW Central Coast, laying the foundation for the expanding McCoy empire across Japan, the USA, and Hawaii.

Geoff's instinctive desire to experiment and try new things got him into the world of twin-fin surfboards, making him one of the first Aussies to shape them.

The Lazor Zap

However, what really changed for the NSW surfer-shaper was the famous "Lazor Zap," a surfboard model with a steep rocker and a sharp nose.

The board allowed surfers to get more vertical, engage in tighter top-to-bottom surf lines, and take more risks while performing radical maneuvers.

According to surf historian Matt Warshaw, the "Lazor Zap" allowed surfers to "move the board's trimming sweet spot - usually a foot or so ahead of where the rider stands while turning - back toward the tail section so that, in theory, the surfer would not have to move their feet."

The magical model helped team rider Cheyne Horan lock in two runner-up finishes in the 1981 and 1981 ASP World Tour.

Here's how Geoff McCoy described his iconic template:

"The concept of the 'Lazor Zap' is based on my energy theory, which explains how energy turns into wave formation and how objects react with those formations."

"The original 'Lazor Zap' was designed with short arc, reactive high-powered surfing in mind. The surfer was able to stand in one position, not having to move their feet to perform their maneuvers and this is exactly how the boards performed."

"The pulled nose allowed the board to elevate very quickly as it reduced the length of rail being used when the board is turning."

"In turn, this allowed for more maneuvers to be performed while the surfer was standing in a fixed position on the wide thick supportive tail which generates greater pressure and easier reaction."

"The advantages were many - easier to paddle, stand in one position to ride the wave, quicker reaction from the extra volume, easier turning from less resistance, and ability to surf at a faster speed."

"In effect, everything required from them, the 'Lazor Zap' designs delivered at all levels of performance."

An Inspiring Surfboard Craftsman

McCoy's lineup also featured other groundbreaking designs, such as the "Nugget," "Quazor Zip," and "Astron Zot," each presenting its distinct features and riding opportunities.

Simon Anderson's thruster revolution soon eclipsed McCoy's avant-garde models and designs sold via Lost and Channel Islands.

But the mentor of the three-fin setup would Call Geoff one of the five inspiring figures behind the thruster.

Meanwhile, a business manager hired by Geoff methodically accumulated debt for McCoy.

The shaper became aware of this when a longstanding associate inquired about outstanding payments.

Geoff contacted the manager from Sydney, only to find the accounts wiped from the computer upon his return to the Avoca factory.

He had lost around 500,000 dollars.

Faced with bankruptcy or receivership, bankruptcy was unthinkable for Geoff, who valued honor and integrity.

Reluctantly, he placed the flourishing business under receivership, liquidating assets to settle debts in 1984.

McCoy never stopped shaping boards - in Hawaii, Tweed Heads, and Byron Bay - or inspiring craftspeople worldwide to rethink his greatest models.

The man who spread the tear-drop-shaped surfboard smoothly blended philosophy, pragmatism, and technically superior foam-mowing skills into his out-of-the-box designs.

In 2018, Geoff highlighted the surfers who profoundly influenced his shaping philosophy: Gerry Lopez for hold and release, Midget Farrelly for the outline, and Nat Young for rails.

McCoy might have left us, but his rideable legacy lives.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Jack Robinson and Gabriela Bryan have taken out the 2024 Margaret River Pro.

In a full day of competition that ran 18 heats, Bryan and Robinson took down a stacked field in six-to-eight-foot waves at Margaret River's Main Break. 

As the final event before the mid-season cut, the surfers left in the draw had one last opportunity to continue through to the back half of the 2024 CT season.

Today's high-pressured heats confirmed the final list of competitors who made and missed the mid-season cut. 

Gabriela Bryan Claims Maiden CT Victory

Coming into Margaret River Pro, Gabriela Bryan was sitting in 10th place on the rankings and in desperate need of her best result of the year.

A standout at Margaret River, Bryan has made the final at this location before to save her place on Tour with a career-best runner-up finish in her rookie season.

The 22-year-old's path to the Final was a rocky one, with plenty of close results seeing her edge out her opponents, Costa Rica's Brisa Hennessy and Australia's India Robinson.

Bryan saved her best surfing for last against 2024 CT Rookie Sawyer Lindblad (USA) in the Final, where she posted her best heat total of the week, a 15.93 (out of a possible 20), to claim her maiden CT victory and move up to No. 5 on the world rankings.

"I don't even know what to say. I'm so happy right now," Bryan said.

"It's been a crazy day, crazy week, crazy month. I'm so happy to get this win and proud to do it when my back was against the wall. I couldn't do this alone, though. My mom, my dad, my brother, and my sister support me so much."

"Seabass [Sebastian Zietz] has supported me so much. There are so many people at home, and I hope I've made them all proud. This is insane, and I don't even know if it's sunk in yet."

The women's Final saw eventual winner and 2022 Western Australia Margaret River Pro runner-up Bryan take on rookie Lindblad on a day that has once again seen the next generation of female competitors raise the bar.

For the majority of the 35-minute matchup, both women held mid-range heat totals without separating Linblad's vertical backhand approach from Bryan's frontside power hacks.

Then, with less than five minutes left, Bryan found the biggest wave of the set and laid down a huge frontside carve, then finished with a super late, critical rebound to earn an excellent 8.10 (out of a possible 10) to take the win.  

"I was coming into this event under the cut, and now I'm No. 5, which makes a big difference," continued Bryan.

"It's just reassuring knowing my surfing belongs on Tour. I'm so happy we got good waves today."

"Last year, I was eliminated from this event and relied on things going my way to make the cut, so it was so good to do it myself and do what I needed to do."

"All the girls put on such a good show today. When I kicked out of that wave, I knew it was sent to me by someone - with those dolphins riding it - it was amazing."

Robinson Earns Second CT Victory at Margaret River

After winning the 2022 Western Australia Margaret River Pro, a knee injury early last season robbed Jack Robinson of defending the title at his home break.

This year saw Robinson get his opportunity, and after an early exit at Bells Beach, the young Australian World Title hopeful looked destined for the Final from his performances today.

Robinson built through the day and, in the Final against John John Florence, posted the second-highest heat total of the event to claim his second win in front of his hometown crowd, friends, and family. 

"I missed last year and went through so much to get back and get through that injury, so I felt like this year I was defending my title," Robinson said.

"I'm feeling good. That's the final I wanted, and I wanted to throw everything at it. It's always fun surfing against John."

"We will have many more heats in the future, I'm sure. What a day. I'm super humbled to be here and win at my home, and I'm so grateful for this moment."

The men's Final saw local boy Robinson come up against Main Break standout Florence in a matchup of the two event standouts.

Florence looked to be the man to beat coming in, but Robinson had other ideas, posting a 9.10 for three huge carves on one of the biggest waves of the event, then backing it up with an 8.17 for a massive frontside straight air with three turns to complete the wave.

Robinson's 17.27 heat total (out of a possible 20) was the second-highest of the event and left Florence needing a Perfect 10 to take the lead.

Florence posted an 8.10 to lower the requirement but couldn't find another set wave, leaving Robinson to take the win and equal Florence with two Main Break victories in what was one of the heats of the event.

With this being his second CT win of the year, Robinson moves to second on the rankings heading into Tahiti, where he is the defending event winner. 

"John John fires me so much, and I always look forward to heats with him," Robinson continued.

"There's no one else I'd rather final with than John. Watching him out here inspired me so much. He set the benchmark. It's not just me who won; it's everyone who supports me."

"It's an incredible moment. To come back here after traveling all year is special. It's my home, and it's the best place in the world. And I'm grateful to be here right now."  

Last Mid-Season Cut Qualifiers

Sally Fitzgibbons, the 15-year CT veteran, needed to win the entire event to save herself from the cut.

In a battle with 2024 CT rookie Sawyer Lindblad, the two competitors played a patient game, with former Margaret River winner Fitzgibbons holding the advantage with only two waves surfed.

With everything on the line, Lindblad threw everything at a medium set with only seconds remaining to earn a 5.50 and the win by just 0.50 of a point.

For Fitzgibbons, it's the second consecutive year she will be forced to return to the Challenger Series, a tour she dominated in 2023.

Bryan won her heat against India Robinson in the first Quarterfinal to make the cut and secure her position on the Tour for her third straight season.

Robinson, who needed to win the entire event to avoid relegation, put up a strong fight, but she fell less than 2 points shy in the Main Break conditions. 

With a massive comeback to start the day in Heat 5 of the men's Round of 16, Moniz saved himself from the cut in the dying minutes of his heat against World No. 2 Ethan Ewing.

With time escaping the Hawaiian, he had one final opportunity that paid off with an excellent 8.17 and the win.

Moniz went on to face Robinson, where the close matchup saw the West Australian get the win with a narrow 0.63-point advantage. 

Brazilian Caio Ibelli was unable to take down eventual Quarterfinalist Smith.

His loss in the Round of 16, Heat 6, means that he missed the cut, while the result also cleared the way for Connor O'Leary (JPN) to qualify.

Ibelli will head back to the Challenger Series, which kicks off in exactly one week at the Bonsoy Gold Coast Pro at the famed Snapper Rocks. 

Joining Ibelli at Snapper will be Samuel Pupo (BRA) after his loss to Florence in the first Quarterfinal.

An excellent performance from Florence, with a 16.26 combined score, was too much for Pupo to defeat with a 14.17.

Pupo relegated his older brother in the Round of 16, and they'll now do battle to requalify for the Tour together via the Challenger Series.

Pupo's also loss provided the opening and confirmation for Yago Dora to be the final men's competitor to clear the mid-season cut.

2024 Margaret River Pro | Finals

Women

1. Gabriela Bryan (HAW) 15.93
2. Sawyer Lindblad (USA) 13.94

Men

1. Jack Robinson (AUS) 17.27
2. John John Florence (HAW) 16.04

Made the Cut

Men

1. Griffin Colapinto
2. Jack Robinson
3. John John Florence
4. Ethan Ewing
5. Jordy Smith
6. Jake Marshall
7. Barron Mamiya
8. Cole Houshmand
9. Kanoa Igarashi
10. Liam O'Brien
11. Imaikalani deVault
12. Crosby Colapinto
13. Seth Moniz
14. Rio Waida
15. Ramzi Boukhiam
16. Italo Ferreira 
17. Leonardo Fioravanti
18. Ryan Callinan
19. Gabriel Medina
20. Matthew McGillivray
21. Connor O'Leary
22. Yago Dora

Relegated

• Samuel Pupo
• Ian Gentil
• Caio Ibelli
• Miguel Pupo
• Kade Matson
• Jacob Willcox
• Frederico Morais
• Callum Robson
• Eli Hanneman
• Kelly Slater
• Deivid Silva
• Joao Chianca
• Filipe Toledo

Women

1. Caitlin Simmers
2. Johanne Defay
3. Molly Picklum
4. Brisa Hennessy
5. Gabriela Bryan
6. Caroline Marks
7. Bettylou Sakura Johnson
8. Tyler Wright
9. Tatiana Weston-Webb
10. Sawyer Lindblad

Relegated

• Lakey Peterson
• Luana Silva
• Sally Fitzgibbons
• Isabella Nichols
• India Robinson
• Alyssa Spencer
• Sophie McCulloch
• Carissa Moore

Big wave surfing is an industry with an industry.

The relentless chase for world records translates into prize money and sponsorship deals.

Athletes have been pushing their limits and putting their lives on the line to ride bigger and heavier waves.

Top athletes now work with multidisciplinary teams involving personal trainers, psychologists, nutritionists, photo and videographers, and public relations professionals.

This 360-degree approach brings world-renowned big riders closer to their goal of holding the record for the largest wave ever surfed.

Sebastian Steudtner is one of them.

The German holds the coveted Guinness World Record trophy validated by the World Surf League.

But the 2023/2024 winter season was particularly rich in XXL swells and potentially world record-breaking feats.

Drones to Measure Wave Height

So, because the best defense is the attack, Steudtner leveraged "state-of-the-art drone technology" developed by Porsche Engineering to measure one of his best recent rides at Nazaré.

The drone prototype from the joint technology project between Team Steudtner and Porsche Engineering was used during this winter's XXL swell.

According to the German team, the device determines the height of waves quickly and precisely.

The prototype is equipped with cameras, control units, and storage devices.

In addition, sensors are used in vehicle development to support modern driver assistance systems.

The drone can measure all areas of the wave and the surfer within a radius of about 100 meters. 

"We are very pleased to have created an innovative solution that can advance the sport of surfing," says Marcus Schmelz, Project Manager at Porsche Engineering.

"It was a challenge to develop a drone that can measure not only the height of the waves but is also capable of tracking the surfer within the radius throughout the entire wave ride."

Porsche Engineering's drone measured Sebastian's wave at Nazaré at 93.73 feet (28.57 meters). The wave was caught and ridden on February 24, 2024.

The current world record, also held by Steudtner, is 86.4 feet (26.21 meters), which was achieved at Nazaré in 2020. 

The current official WSL measurement model uses video footage and still images to determine wave height.

"We are open to sharing our technical insights from the drone development with official experts," adds Schmelz.

"Our goal is to further increase transparency in big wave surfing and to provide accurate measurement data more quickly."

Porsche's drone is not the first to fly over waves and measure them.

In 2020, Teddy Allen and Milan Curcic created Henet Wave, a similar, portable unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) that works as an aerial surf buoy.

The device was tested in 2022 and has been continuously updated.

Mission Wave Alpha

Sebastian Steudtner's entourage is one of the strongest in the field.

The German is backed up by several multinational corporations, including Porsche, Porsche Engineering, Schaeffler, O2 Germany, Deutsche Vermögensberatung, X-BIONIC, and others.

He recently set up Mission Wave Alpha, a project that aims to get Steudtner surfing waves twice the size of the current world record, i.e., 130-160 feet (40-50 meters).

These brands are helping him push the sport to the next level on all fronts, from water safety to board materials and design.

Over the past three years, Steudtner, in partnership with Porsche Engineering and Schaeffler, has developed and optimized new surfboard technology to get him surfing the biggest waves possible.

For instance, to reduce water and air resistance, a fundamental variable in surfing, the surfer and his tech team used the latest simulation methods and wind tunnel validations.

As a result, with the new board "Caçador RS," Steudtner says he can now reach speeds of up to 100 kilometers per hour, compared to the previous 80 kilometers per hour.

Higher speed is critical to riding larger waves because the taller a wave is, the faster the surfer must be so that it doesn't overrun him.

Now, this speed advantage enabled Steudtner to ride the potential next record wave.

"I am very proud to be able to bring big wave surfing to the next level through the development of safety and technology and by believing in my dream," concludes Sebastian Steudtner.

"Together with my team, which is driven by its unique 'can do' mindset to define possible in big-wave surfing, we were able to accomplish this mission."

The race for the world's largest wave ever surfed is on, with Lucas "Chumbo" Chianca also claiming a potential record in Praia do Norte, Nazaré, Portugal.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Is it possible to shape a surfboard out of ice? And if you make it a reality, can you surf it?

They're probably the world's most sustainable surfboards, made from the same core of waves - water.

The physics of surfboards and surfing tell us that gravity and buoyancy play fundamental roles in moving the rideable surface across the wave.

These two forces only need a stable, relatively wide, and long stiff material to propel a human over the water.

One of the first to come up with the idea of a surfboard made of frozen water was Conn Bertish, a surfer, artist, and ocean protection activist, who crafted a life-sized surfboard completely out of ice in 2009.

Bertish spent two days sculpting the ice board in a specialized fridge in Cape Town, South Africa.

Afterward, the board was transported in two pieces to Depasco Café, where it was showcased to the public as part of the Wavescapes Surf Art Exhibition.

The goal was to highlight the impact of global warming on our oceans and the rapid melting of glaciers and ice caps worldwide.

So, if ice is solid and floats, why can't it be shaped and turned into a real rideable surfboard?

Well, that was exactly what Nordics and Scandinavians thought when they first created these innovative surf craft.

If there's a resource they can harvest nearly infinite quantities, it is ice.

The Pioneering Norwegian Experiment

In 2019, Lofoten-based filmmaker Inge Wegge shot "Ice Edge," a short movie about a Norwegian collective trying to shape surfboards made of ice.

The team included seasoned surfers, a professional ice sculptor, and a local shaper.

It was a trial-and-error process, as different shaping techniques had to be tested, and carving ice blocks above the Arctic Circle is not something anyone can do.

Nothing was ruled out: longer and shorter templates, finless and non-finless setups, the use of sand to increase grip, and even embedded LED lights.

Soon, they realized they needed around 20-30 frozen surfboards and a boat to carry them to the lineup and town surfers into the waves.

All of this is in -10 °C of air temperature that often feels like -25 °C due to wind.

At first, they tried cutting ice from frozen lakes, but it didn't work.

Then they made molds from plastic and wood, filled them with fresh water, added seaweed for grip, and some other things for fun.

They put the boards in a room at -25 °C for two days in a fishery before testing them in the waves.

They tried out the boards for four days, carrying heavy 70-kilogram creations to the water.

The boards lasted about 30 minutes in the 3 °C ocean water before melting away, with only about five minutes of good surfing conditions.

They needed extra help to push the heavy boards into the waves for enough speed to catch them.

This kind of surfing is riskier than regular surfing because falling onto a 60-70-kilogram ice board can hurt.

After several days of trying, they nailed it, making ice surfboarding a reality.

Wakesurfing with an Ice Board in Minnesota

In 2021, professional ice sculptor Trevor Pearson fulfilled a dream: to shape a surfboard from a single piece of ice.

He meticulously designed it to resemble the shape and dimensions of a traditional surfboard, making it slightly larger to enhance water displacement and improve riding stability.

The thickness of the ice board was also considered to ensure it could withstand a surfer while balancing weight and buoyancy.

The experiment took place on a day when the ice had just melted on Eagle Lake in Minnesota.

Trevor and friends took the wake boat out, put the two and a half to three-inch thick board in the water, and realized it held up surprisingly well.

Their only enemy was temperature.

Trevor's experience on the ice board involved a delicate balance between staying upright and monitoring the board's condition.

As he rode, he had to assess the thickness of the ice beneath him, noticing it gradually thinning with each run.

The board was melting. Despite the inevitable, Trevor managed to navigate the ice board for a while before it eventually snapped in half.

          View this post on Instagram                      

A post shared by Sam Studee (@samstudee)

The 50-pound Transparent Surfboard

In April 2024, professional wakesurfer Sam Studee challenged local company Minnesota Ice to shape a wakeboard out of frozen water.

The result was two 50-pound transparent boards swiftly tested in a nearby lake's cool waters.

The ride was a success; he was literally surfing on water, even though the boards melted and broke in half in 30 seconds.

How did Studee not slip? The real-life Cody Maverick drilled screws through his shoes for traction.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

The most successful competitive surfer of all time, Kelly Slater, rode what may have been the last heat of his 24-year professional career.

The 11-time world surfing champion survived the elimination round at Margaret River but lost his Round 32 against Griffin Colapinto.

Consequently, Slater, 52, does not make the mid-season cut nor qualified for the 2025 WSL CT  and is expected to hang his leash when it comes to professional surfing.

There was never a formal announcement, but it's clear from his emotional post-comp words that surfing's greatest of all time (GOAT) is moving on to a new stage of his life.

It's been 44 years lifting trophies with the jersey on since the Cocoa Beach-born started competing at eight.

The youngest (20) and the oldest (39) surfer to conquer a world surfing title won 56 Championship Tour (CT) events.

The first contest win arrived in 1992 at Rip Curl Pro Landes, and the last was the 2022 Billabong Pro Pipeline.

Kelly Slater won eight Pipe Masters, three Triple Crown of Surfing trophies, and one Eddie Invitational contest.

In the future, we may see the smooth Floridian taking on his favorite waves as a wildcard: Pipeline, Teahupoo, and Cloudbreak.

What has he missed? The Olympic Games.

In His Own Words

"A lot of emotions today. I look back at my friends who've retired and maybe they can relate to how I'm feeling now - just some relief, you know?"

"There's no sleepless nights with the pressure. I think I put a lot of pressure on myself still to this day."

"For heats, I have a certain expectation for myself, and I haven't been putting in the working discipline, the hours in the water, you got to surf with lots of people and really figure out your boards in the wave and all that stuff and I just did it for so long it's nice to have that rear view at this point."

"I was trying to get myself into the Olympics, and since it doesn't look like at all happening in any reasonable sense, like about 10 people would have to get injured, if a couple of opportunities arise, I'll see how I'm feeling."

The Last Heats

"I was just trying to have fun and smile. Sometimes, you smile, and it just makes everything feel a lot better. I felt good. I actually felt I won the [elimination round] heat!"

"I fought for the position with Cole and Yago, and it paid off. I started out that heat out really strong, and then I actually wasted priority in a couple of waves that were low-scoring and didn't pan out to be good waves."

"Competitively, I was good in that heat. The heat with Griff, I just got kind of caught in a hole cuz the ocean did die, and the wind came up. I was imagining a seven or eight was going to come when the best wave was going to be that six the Griff got, and I let him have it."

"So, little mistakes there, but you can't predict what ocean's going to do. You go to be in that moment and have an idea of what's going to come."

"But I've been competing for 44 years. I started competing at eight years old in 1980, so I'm used to being in that environment."

"At the same time, I hold myself to a certain standard in my head, so when I'm not getting the results, and I'm not putting myself in competitive situations... you make your own luck."

"I've had a little bit of reluctance. I am surfing very injured still. I probably came back a little too quick after surgery, but you know I wasn't going to stick around till next year and say, 'Can I have one of those wildcards?, especially with João and a couple of guys hurt and they're at the beginning of their career. They have all the desire to be there, and the baby is coming; it's the right time."

"Surfing is number one to me still, and I want to surf my best every day. I still want to get my favorite board and surf my best wave of my life and you know that I don't think that ever goes away."

The Longevity

"It's a funny thing because when I got on Tour, I think Tom Carroll and those guys were about the oldest guys - 29, 30 - and that seemed to be what was going to be ancient surfing."

"So I had this idea that I was going to have a 10-year-long pro career once I got on tour."

"And then I got really burned out at 26 and retired and then three years off, came back, and to be honest, I wasn't really spoken about as being in that picture that first year back. It was Taj, Andy, Parko, Dingo, and that kind of little fire under me for sure."

"I was the underdog because Andy was just on fire those three years. I think he won the first year I was back in the tour - 2002 - and he kind of started his reign."

"And that got me fired up, and then losing so closely to him was really like a heartache for me. You might see it in 'Blue Horizon' - it was tough."

"And then next year, I didn't even try. My heart wasn't in it - I was like, 'That hurts too much to lose that close,' and then in the beginning of 2005, I said to Parko, 'Which one of us is going to take this thing? Come on, let's go!' And then Mick got in the mix. He won in 2007, and then we went back and forth."

"It definitely lit a flame under me, and I felt like that really gave me a lot of longevity because I knew I could dig it out of myself."

The Legacy

"I'm not sure. I don't know. I really went all the way in four fins, for instance, and no one was riding them. But I thank Simon Anderson for that."

"My first four fin was in like 1985 from Matt Keckley, but I didn't stick with him, and then Simon made me one in 2003, and I loved it."

"So that kind of got me like on that, but I was thinking about that earlier, and I think being rated number one in the world at 50 years old was probably the top thing for me."

"I've put my heart and soul into it, and you know, I appreciate that I'm part of that."

The Other GOATs

"I know a few of the greatest sportsmen, but I'm not really close with many of them. I know Lance Armstrong pretty well. I know Tiger a little bit. I met Kobee and Jordan."

"I know Michael Phelps pretty well. We've played some golf together, and we've chatted about little things. I like to pick his brain."

"If we're going to pick one guy who's just dominated beyond anyone else, it's Michael Phelps. In all sports. No one's ever going to even come close to matching that record."

"It's cool to meet people from other sports. Lance Armstrong, in his heyday, was a huge inspiration for me, coming back and winning a title again in 2005 and in those years. when I won in 2005 or 2006, he called me, and then I was sort of a fan."

"A friend of mine who was really into cycling was next to me when he called me, and I handed the phone to her, and she just cried. It was so cool - it was a really great memory."

Being the Benchmark

"There's a part of me that really hates the pressure, and then today, after it started to soak in, I got really emotional about that pressure is not going to be there in my life constantly."

"It's given me a lot of gifts, so it's a love-hate for me."

But I wanted to be that guy as a kid. I wanted to be the best I could possibly be, and I wanted to be the number one in the world. I was hoping I could beat the guys that I thought were the best guys."

The Favorite Trophies

"The Eddies are really the cherry on top. As far as Tour guys go, John won it, Bruce Irons won it as well."

"But I never really set my sights on the Triple Crown. A few years I did, and I had good fortune there, but I think the eight wins at Pipe is the standout for me, and I won a few at Teahupoo too, so both those mean a lot to me."

The Best Period on Tour

"It was the start, for sure. I was just so fiery-focused early on. The first thing that pops in my mind when I got on Tour was I traveled with the Aussies."

"Then, in the mid-1990s, all my boys were on tour from back in the States. I got on Tour a year before all the Americans did, and then I was traveling with all of them."

"Shane and I, Rob and I, we spent a lot of time together. But it was the mid-1990s, 1996, probably my best two years back-to-back competitively, and then 2008, a really super strong year for me. I won a lot of events that year."

"So, I had like a real resurgence there and then this last decade I won Teahupoo, Pipeline."

"When my nephew was born, I was trying to stay in Florida for the birth, and I missed the first round, and the day I won, I told my brother, 'I'm going to go get that trophy for your kid,' and I beat Mick in that final and I just had absolutely zero fear. I had zero doubt I was going to win. I just had this like higher power."

Barracuda, one of the elder leaders in the village, passed away within a few hours of my brother's son being born, and I won the contest in this one daytime. And then I got chaired up on the island by all the Fijians - that was that's one of my favorite memories."

This article is being updated.

The exponential growth in the number of surfing participants is undeniable, but the industry failed to accompany and capitalize on this opportunity. Here's why the sport lacks undergraduate and postgraduate courses and programs and how to draft a simple surf industry MBA program.

In the 1990s and early 2000s, the surf industry enjoyed some of its best years ever. The surfing community was engaged with the companies and vice-versa.

People proudly wore surfwear, and brands were an active part of the show, whether by sponsoring athletes and events or creating innovative initiatives that kept the sport united and tight.

Apparel and clothing sales soared, and when the internet was about to take the sport to a whole new stratospherical dimension, everything changed.

The 2007 American subprime mortgage crisis hit the world, and the world's largest surf companies entered their decadence decades.

Surf culture changed fast, too.

There were more indie surf manufacturers biting the toes of the big players, and recreational surfers were no longer willing to pay $90 for a pair of boardshorts.

The detachment period between brands and buyers continued, and the surf industry at large did not change the paradigm.

The most recognizable insignias insisted on selling their products the same way, using the same old methods and featuring the same old stereotypes.

Bankruptcy and merging news followed, but the industry kept walking the same path.

Despite growing dissatisfaction with surfing's most popular and powerful communications weapon - the Championship Tour (CT) - the fans have not been listened to enough.

Reality shows were launched, and wave pools welcomed professional surfers competing in controlled conditions.

It seemed like surfing had been taken over by highly trained and skilled businessmen with no connection whatsoever with the multidimensional reality of surfing.

And maybe that's the main issue - knowledge of the sport and its profoundly diverse roots and impacts.

The 360-Degree Vision

You cannot understand the surf industry without knowing how it went from a pastime and spiritual activity to the fully grown sport that it is today.

You have to learn the intermediate steps that took it from the sands of Honolulu's Waikiki Beach to Nazaré's Praia do Norte in Portugal.

These mid-level connections provide a deep understanding of what surfing is today and where it could go tomorrow.

At which point in time did the world surfing community require meteorologists to improve their scoring and optimize their traveling?

How does surf forecasting work? How did it become a business, and how could it go beyond the borders of the sport's need and into the mainstream?

What are the mathematical, oceanographical, and environmental parameters and variables that shape modern surfing?

What impact do they have on the world?

What is surfing's role in local tourism? Is there a recipe or guidelines for boosting a coastal town's economy without damaging it?

What does surfonomics teach local and national authorities? How do you frame surfing in the Olympic context in the medium and long term?

What are surf training's best high-performance practices, and how can small details in surfboard shaping influence the way we ride waves?

How can surfing and surfers become role models for what truly matters, including ocean and beach protection, healthy lifestyles, and respect for others?

The reality of surfing as an industry and a sport is unique. Despite having over 35 million participants in a 50 billion dollar market, it is still pretty much unexplored and fragmented.

The world's best banker will not necessarily turn a multi-billion-dollar company or competitive sports circuit into a highly successful business or organization.

And with the wave pool revolution and the introduction of AI-based products, the industry requires specific education programs.

Past and Present Postgraduate Studies in Surfing

The first decade of the 21st century saw the launch of several postgraduate studies in surf-related topics.

SurferToday highlighted their birth at the time, including:

• BSc (Hons) in Surf Science and Technology (Plymouth University, United Kingdom);
• Diploma of Sport Management: Surfing Studies (Southern Cross University, Australia);
• Bachelor of Science: Surf Science and Technology (Edith Cowan University, Australia);
• Surfing Administration, Marketing and Business Management (Universidade de Sao Paulo, Brazil);

However, these higher education courses were relatively short-lived, never quite got support from the industry, and were eventually discontinued.

Some colleges and universities still offer some postgraduate qualifications and degrees today. They include:

• FdSc Surf Science Degree (Newquay University Centre Cornwall College);
• Post-graduation in High-Performance Surf Coaching (Faculty of Human Kinetics, University of Lisbon);
• Science of Surfing Performance (School of Environmental and Life Sciences, University of Newcastle Australia);

However, the sport still lacks an in-depth, holistic program that provides present and future surf industry professionals with a 360-degree perspective of the sport, which can then be applied to business management or more sports-driven occupations within surfing.

It's impossible to separate modern surfing from the business side of it.

Simultaneously, those who address surfing as a product that can be monetized as any other sport or service will be on the wrong path.

Designing a Higher Education Surf Industry Program

If the goal is to prepare a surf industry professional for the multiple facets  of the sport, the university or college should address the first three major rough pillars before designing the postgraduate program:

• Past: The history of surfing since its roots in Ancient Polynesia, Peru, Africa, and even China;
  Present: Surfing in a global world dominated by social media and the explosion of wave pools;
  Future: The role of technologies in surfboard shaping and design, surf forecasting, and how AI will impact several aspects of an increasingly digitized sport;

After identifying our rough guidelines, it's time to break them down into more detail. What should a surf industry-driven MBA course teach? Here's a draft for a two-year program:

1st Semester

• Past History of Surfing: The evolution of surfing from a pastime and fishing craft to a popular Hawaiian tourism activity;
• Introduction to Meteorology: The basics of the Earth's atmospheric phenomena;
• Surf Science I: The formation of wind and waves;
• Surfonomics I: What is the value of waves and how to estimate its economic impact;
• Surf Media: The history of surf media and their most prestigious offline and online publications;
• Ocean and Coastal Protection I: The impact of human-made activities on natural coastline features;

2nd Semester

• Modern History of Surfing: The evolution of surfing since the Duke Kahanamoku days to the shortboard revolution;
• Brand Communications: How to design, implement, and align a brand communication strategy with its target;
• Surf Science II: The growth of waves and the propagation of swells across the ocean;
• Sports Nutrition: The creation of an up-to-date high-performance diet for the modern professional surfer;
• Surf Training: The fundamentals of pre and post-surf fitness workouts;
• Surfboard Design I: The physics of surfing and surfboards and the evolution of templates and materials through time;

3rd Semester

• Wave Pool Technology: Understanding the most advanced wave pool technologies and their working principles;
• Surf Science III: Bathymetry, wave diffraction and refraction;
• Statistics & Consumer Search: Using Google products to understand consumer profiles, geography, and behavior;
• Active vs. Passive Internet Activation: How to activate a surf brand's website using professional digital marketing tools;
• Surfonomics II: A World Surfing Reserve Case Study: The analysis of successful surf economics strategies in a coastal community;
• Ocean and Coastal Protection II: Real-life examples and actions to defend and promote the shoreline and its natural assets;

4th Semester

• Event Management: Planning a surf contest from choosing the site and event window to surf judging and logistics;
• Introduction to the Surf Industry: The key figures, trends, and categories within the surfing business;
• Surf Science IV: Local winds, tides, global weather patterns, and the basics of surf forecasting;
• AI & Surfing: Identifying AI in the current surf industry business and reflecting on future uncharted opportunities;
• Surf Product Management: The complete life cycle of a surf product from an idea to the recycling bin;
• Surfboard Design II: How the template, the rails, nose, tail, fins, and core materials can be changed according to wave needs and surfer profile;

The Surf Industry MBA would include field visits to surf companies and surf-related businesses and organizations, in-class speeches from experienced industry veterans, film and video analysis, and group work.

The evaluation would blend coursework, exams, oral presentations (individual and group), and homework.

Ultimately, the MBA graduate should be able to:

1. Explain the evolution of surfing from its roots to modern times;
2. Analyze and read a surf report and a weather map;
3. Forecast the ocean conditions at a given spot;
4. Plan a healthy long-term sports nutrition plan;
5. Design a monthly pre and post-surf physical training program for a professional surfer;
6. Start a small surf business using marketing, communications, and digital resources available freely;
7. Identify the major organizations of the surfing world, including businesses, non-governmental organizations, and sports entities;
8. Point out and propose solutions for ocean, beach, and coastal issues;
9. Detail the world's most widely used wave pool technologies;
10. Explain the basics of surfboard design;
11. Set up a medium-sized surfing competition;
12. Manage any department of any surf industry organization;

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Classified as "Critically Endangered" by UNESCO, the native Hawaiian language has approximately 2,000 speakers. Here's what makes it so special.

Hawaii is a unique archipelago with an ancient Polynesian culture.

It's also home to an exclusive endemic ecosystem, where 90 percent of its fauna exist nowhere else in the world.

While the Hawaiian Islands have existed for over 3.4 million years, the earliest documented record of the oral language ('Ōlelo Hawai'i) dates back to 1778, when Captain James Cook set foot on the island of Kauai.

It is estimated that, at the time, between 400,000-800,000 natives spoke the indigenous language.

Hawaiian belongs to the Polynesian language family, sharing similarities with Tongan and Samoan.

Although speakers of Hawaiian may find some basic mutual understanding with speakers of other Polynesian languages, it's important to note that these languages are not interchangeable.

The World's Shortest Writing System

However, the colonization of the archipelago devastated the local dialect.

The British occupiers took over Hawaii in the late 18th century and 19th century, and by 1820, the Christian missionaries made sure to convert the Hawaiian language to a 13-letter Latin alphabet.

It consisted of five vowels (a, e, i, o, and u) and eight consonants (h, k, l, m, n, p, w, and '), used to translate the Bible into the local language.

The 'okina, often represented by a grave accent (`), a left single quotation mark (‘), or an apostrophe ('), seems to have appeared around 1850.

The special character is considered the eighth consonant and indicates a glottal stop, i.e., a break, stop, or separation between letters, changing the meaning of words.

Curious fact: there's an 'okina in the word Hawai'i, making the correct spelling "ha-VAI-ee."

Last but not least, there's the kahakō, the macron that stresses or lengthens the marked vowel.

Unlike what most people think, the longest word in the Hawaiian language is not humuhumunukunukuāpua'a (freely translated as "triggerfish with a snout like a pig").

The longest 'Ōlelo Hawai'i word is lauwiliwilinukunuku'oi'oi (freely translated as "long-snouted fish shaped like a wiliwili leaf") because the two 'okina count as consonants.

Despite having the world's shortest alphabet and exactly 50 percent fewer letters than the English writing system, Hawaiian is incredibly versatile, rich, and descriptive.

For instance, the word aloha does not have an exact or equivalent translation in English, and alongside mahalo, it is the two most used words in Hawaiian.

Another particular curiosity is that all Hawaiian words end with a vowel, and vowels always follow consonants.

'Ōlelo Hawai'i and Pidgin

Following Hawaii's annexation by the United States in 1898, the Hawaiian language was prohibited in educational institutions and government settings.

However, individuals retained the freedom to speak Hawaiian; notably, 14 distinct newspapers continued to be published using the Hawaiian alphabet during this period.

Being one of the oldest living languages on the planet, it became a national treasure when the 1978 Hawaii State Constitution awarded it official status.

Nowadays, Hawaii is the only US state with two official languages: Hawaiian ('Ōlelo Hawai'i) and English.

Purists and full-blooded Hawaiians, though, still reject the language's established grammar, noting that it has been distorted and adapted to Western and colonial norms.

There is an ongoing debate on which language version should be preserved, academic or informal Hawaiian.

Nevertheless, Hawaiian Pidgin, a unique Creole language, is more spoken in Hawaii than Hawaiian.

Also known as Hawai'i Creole English (HCE), Pidgin has 600,000 Hawaiian residents who speak it natively and around 400,000 who adopt it as a second language.

The dialect emerged on Hawaiian sugar plantations during the 1830s as a means of communication among workers from diverse corners of the globe.

It resembles and sometimes sounds like a mix of Japanese, Portuguese, American English, and numerous other languages.

In one particular location, the original Hawaiian ('Ōlelo Hawai'i) remains dominant: the small "forbidden" island of Ni'ihau (pictured above), inhabited by fewer than 170 people.

Here, residents persist in using Hawaiian as their primary language for daily communication.

Aloha State lawmakers are trying to pass bills that will make Hawaiian language courses mandatory for high school students.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

The news that Zigzag's print edition would end in December 2023 was short-lived as this iconic South African surfing magazine will be back on shelves in July 2024.

Rebel Media Group, a European media and marketing conglomerate and dedicated youth culture specialist, recently acquired the magazine, which has been in print since 1976.

Christian Herles from Rebel Media Group says Zigzag has been the flagship voice of South African surf culture for 48 years, and now is the time to embrace more of the African continental surf movement.

"The plan is to produce content across our various touchpoints that will bring this knowledge to the European surf tribes and vice versa."

"Through Zigzag, the European and African surf cultures will get to know each other better, allowing for a deeper understanding and enjoyment of the amazing people, locations, and experiences we can all have in each other's turfs."

Herles said, in addition, the support of Rebel Media's other publishing assets, such as Prime's skiing, surfing, MTB, snowboarding, and WavePoolMag, will enable Zigzag to tap into the different core audiences who share these values.

Zigzag is the third longest-running surf print magazine in the world, and its acquisition by Rebel Media Group will ensure that it continues to publish across print, digital, and social media platforms.

This iconic surfing magazine has established itself as the mouthpiece of the South African surfing community and the global authority on surfing in Africa.

Rebel Media Group specializes in niche board and youth sports productions and is no stranger to the South African surfing scene.

It is the creator of the Rebel Sessions big wave events held at Dungeons in Cape Town.

Under Rebel Media, Zigzag will publish two bumper, premium print editions per year, Winter and Summer, starting this July.

The aim is to increase the value through more pages, better quality paper and print production, and the same original and excellent long-form surf content readers have come to know and love for almost 50 years.

Until then, Zigzag's online and social media operations will generate fresh content and projects, with several new Zigzag initiatives planned for the second half of the year.

Experienced Team Returns

Aside from Rebel Media's input, there is a hugely experienced local team poised to take Zigzag into the future.

Greg Ewing returns as managing editor and archivist.

After more than two decades in the fold, his intimate knowledge of the brand and high-quality visuals will prove invaluable in sourcing A-grade surfing content while supporting Zigzag's loyal visual contributors and nurturing the next generation of African surf content creators.

He is also responsible for preserving and digitizing Zigzag's extensive archive, documenting South African and African surfing culture and expression.

"After working on The Last Zag and seeing the reaction and feedback, it really hit home how strong the brand Zigzag is and how it has a place in so many people's lives, far beyond surfing," commented Ewing.

"I'm really happy that it lives on and excited to be involved in the next chapter."

Jazz Kuschke has climbed aboard and will take charge of Zigzag editorial across all the magazine's channels: print, digital, and live.

He is a heavyweight editor, journalist, and content marketing specialist, as well as a longtime contributor to Zigzag.

His extensive experience includes contributions towards Red Bull, The Mission flyfishing magazine, and niche titles and brands such as Men's Health and Bicycling, among others.

"The surf industry and media landscape have both evolved significantly over the past decade, and with this new incarnation, Zigzag is perfectly positioned," said Kuschke.

"Zigzag is the pinnacle of surf journalism in Africa and I can't be prouder to bear the torch - it feels like everything I've done in my career has built up to this."

Creating continuity, Zigzag's former owner and publisher, Andy Davis, will act as an editorial consultant. Davis says this marks a new chapter in Zigzag's long and proud history.

"I was told, when we bought the magazine in 2013, that no one really 'owns' Zigzag and that we are all just custodians," concludes Davis, adding he is proud to hand over the custodianship of this iconic surfing brand to Rebel Media.

"We hold the line for the community in service of the glory that is surfing in Africa. It has been an honor."

The team is hard at work on the first issue.

Ryan Crosby is the new chief executive officer (CEO) of the World Surf League (WSL).

The professional surfing circuit chose the successor of Erik Logan, the man who led WSL from January 2020 to June 2023.

Since his sudden departure, Emily Hofer, WSL's chief people and purpose officer, and Bob Kane, chief operating officer and chief legal officer, served as interim CEOs.

Ryan Crosby has two decades of experience working as a marketing professional in technological and entertainment companies like Microsoft (2006-2010), En Masse Entertainment (2010-2012), Activision (2012-2015), Netflix (2015-2018), Hulu (2018-2021), and Riot Games (2021-2024).

"What I love about surfing is that it's an incredibly competitive sport, but it's also a way of life, a passion, and a deeply committed global community," said Crosby.

"I am excited to leverage my experience to elevate the WSL brand, deepen our connection with fans, and continue building something surfers can be proud of."

Balancing Profit and Essence

The decision to choose a CEO with a marketing background rather than sports management experience is a sign of the WSL shareholder's priorities.

In other words, Dirk Ziff, the owner of WSL, will continue to get competitive surfing to the mainstream via partnerships with global traditional and new media platforms and providers.

Monetizing pro surfing has been a long-term challenge, and it often conflicts with the hopes and wishes of WSL fans and followers.

The cost of each Championship Tour (CT) event, including logistics, human resources, and prize-money package, was at some point around $3 million, despite the goal to bring it to $1 million.

The new CEO of WSL will have to strike a sensitive balance between keeping the show appealing to the core audience and expanding its reach to a broader non-surfing public.

WSL's long-term vision is to become a media platform capable of generating revenue digitally and via agreements and deals with cable TV and multinational distribution channels.

"Ryan's exceptional track record across some of the most important media platforms, his authentic, approachable manner, and his genuine passion for surfing make him a great fit to lead the WSL into its next chapter of growth and innovation," concluded Dirk Ziff.

Crosby is a Surfrider Foundation board member.

Although born and raised in Pittsburgh, PA, and educated at the University of Arizona, he developed a deep affection for the ocean.

But it wasn't until after graduation, when he relocated to Venice Beach, that he discovered his passion for surfing.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Disney+ announced the release of "The Beach Boys," a documentary celebrating the career of the legendary surf music band.

If there are two global bands that changed the course of music history in the 20th century, they are England's The Beatles and California's The Beach Boys.

They shaped the course of pop in the 1960s and 1970s and went on to influence most of the musical bands that followed.

They are a guiding compass that still echoes in today's musical creations, from mainstream pop to electronic music.

Nevertheless, the sound of The Beach Boys was different. It was fresh, cool, dreamy, and innovative in all fields.

The sonic collages Brian Wilson and friends experimented with vocals, instruments, and music production techniques were groundbreaking and rather different from what was being done in the British Isles.

At the peak of their success, and still today, it's easy to find people who prefer The Beach Boys to The Beatles even though they were never necessarily competing with each other.

If Liverpool had "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band," the Los Angeles had "Pet Sounds."

Never-seen-before Footage

Disney+'s new documentary on The Beach Boys aims to share with the old and young generations the complex web of composing skills, technical achievements, and intricate personalities that helped create the unique, harmonious sound of the West Coast band.

At some point, the original lineup, consisting of brothers Brian, Dennis, and Carl Wilson, their cousin Mike Love, and friend Al Jardine, made friends famous by giving Jan & Dean the hit song "Surf City."

The Beach Boys' lyrical and sonic universe gravitates around the California beach lifestyle, fun, pretty girls, and surfing.

Interestingly, there was only one surfer in the band: Dennis Wilson.

The documentary follows the band from its beginnings in their families, and it shows never-before-seen footage, videos, and interviews with Brian Wilson, Mike Love, Al Jardine, David Marks, Bruce Johnston, and others in music, such as Lindsey Buckingham, Janelle Monáe, Ryan Tedder, and Don Was.

Past members Blondie Chaplin and Ricky Fataar are involved, too, and we'll hear from Carl and Dennis Wilson in old interviews.

"The Beach Boys" is directed by Frank Marshall and Thom Zimny and written by Mark Monroe. The premiere, along with its soundtrack, will be available on May 24, 2024.

The band's official book, "The Beach Boys by The Beach Boys," will also be out on April 2 through Genesis Publications.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

We can't choose our height, and 80 percent of it is genetic. But if you're into surfing, taller and shorter surfers feel noticeable differences in getting acquainted with boards, paddling for, and riding a wave.

In sports, height matters. For the good and the bad.

While shorter athletes tend to perform better in gymnastics and horse riding, taller athletes have the upper hand in basketball and tennis.

At the same time, a surfer's height and weight play a relevant role in learning and evolving their surfing skills.

You don't necessarily need to meet a specific body measurement to be good at surfing, but being fit and staying in shape will always help.

That's the rule number one.

There is also the body type analysis. We all fit in an interval between the three major body types: ectomorph, endomorph, and mesomorph.

In theory, the mesomorph body type would be the ideal pick, but that doesn't exclude everyone else from excelling in surfing.

The Center of Gravity

The history of professional competitive surfing is not statistically clear on whether shorter or taller surfers prevail and win world titles.

According to data, the average-height athlete around 5'7''-5'9" (1.70-1.75 meters) is more successful.

So, how do the body measurement variables get into play when we surf?

In short, the secret lies in the optimal balance between the surfer's weight and height, and surfboard dimensions.

The taller and heavier the surfer, the more volume will be needed in the surfboard; the shorter and lighter the surfer, the less volume will be required in the surfboard.

Riding a surfboard demands keeping a low center of gravity, i.e., a low point where the body mass is concentrated, usually about an inch below the navel.

In other words, compressing your knees and legs and staying long is necessary to counterbalance opposing upward and side forces involved in wave riding.

Taller surfers have a higher center of gravity; shorter surfers have a lower center of gravity.

As a result, taller surfers will need to keep their bodies really low to achieve the same riding performances shorter surfers will get in identical wave conditions.

Getting a really tall surfer low on a surfboard comes with several disadvantages, as it will be harder for them to react and adjust to the continuous flow and changes of the wave.

Simultaneously, they will struggle to maneuver the surfboard and perform tricks on the open face and in the air, generate speed, and fit their bodies in tight spaces while doing turns.

The only compensation taller surfers can get is by leveling the size of their surfboards up - in height, width, and overall volume.

The problem is that these changes may not fit and adapt well to, for instance, small wave conditions or less hollow and cylindrical barrels.

Being closer to the surface of the water reduces the chances of falling and vice-versa.

Also, even a taller surfer that is perfectly fit and in shape will weigh more and thus will have more body mass, so they will need larger waves to perform at the highest level.

For taking off, it's also harder for tall surfers.

Due to their longer legs, there's more work to do to bring them up compared to a shorter wave rider.

A larger body is also more prone to injuries. In a wipeout, longer limbs mean more distance to the water.

Advantages of Tall Surfers

It's not only bad news for the tall surfing community.

Six-foot-plus male and female wave riders have a few advantages that they can use to enhance their surfing.

Power is the most relevant asset they might possess.

A taller surfer is able to unleash more power in pivoting turns, carves, and top-to-bottom maneuvers than a shorter surfer.

Consequently, they can generate more spray and displace more water than anyone else in the game.

The second advantage is paddling power.

Having longer arms is surely a privilege that could be translated into profit by catching more and better waves or waves that are hard to get into.

One of the helpful tricks for tall surfers is to get bigger than average boards and work on fine-tuning foot positioning.

It is easier to adjust to the ideal placement of the back and front feet on a surfboard with more volume.

Pro Surfers Height

As we've seen above, there is not a fundamental and absolute correlation between height and world champion titles.

However, it is also true that average-height surfers seem to collect more trophies.

Most professional surfers competing on the Championship Tour (CT) are not particularly tall.

In the 2024 season, the median height is 5 ft 11 in (1.80 meters), and the average height is approximately 5 ft 10.74 in (1.79 meters).

Here are their heights sorted from tallest to shortest:

• Jordy Smith: 6 ft, 3 in (1.90 meters)
• Kade Matson: 6 ft, 3 in (1.90 meters)
• Cole Houshmand: 6 ft, 3 in (1.90 meters)
• John John Florence: 6 ft, 2 in (1.87 meters)
• Connor O'Leary: 6 ft, 1 in (1.85 meters)
• Frederico Morais: 6 ft, 1 in (1.85 meters)
• Ian Gentil: 6 ft, 1 in (1.85 meters)
• Ramzi Boukhiam: 6 ft, 1 in (1.85 meters)
• Ryan Callinan: 6 ft, 1 in (1.85 meters)
• Yago Dora: 6 ft, 0 in (1.82 meters)
• Jake Marshall: 6 ft, 0 in (1.82 meters)
• Griffin Colapinto: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Gabriel Medina: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Ethan Ewing: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Jack Robinson: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Crosby Colapinto: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Kanoa Igarashi: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Callum Robson: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Eli Hanneman: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Leonardo Fioravanti: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Liam O'Brien: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Matthew McGillivray: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Jacob Willcox: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• João Chianca: 5 ft, 11 in (1.80 meters)
• Kelly Slater: 5 ft, 9 in (1.75 meters)
• Samuel Pupo: 5 ft, 9 in (1.75 meters)
• Barron Mamiya: 5 ft, 9 in (1.75 meters)
• Filipe Toledo: 5 ft, 9 in (1.75 meters)
• Miguel Pupo: 5 ft, 9 in (1.75 meters)
• Deivid Silva: 5 ft, 7 in (1.70 meters)
• Imaikalani deVault: 5 ft, 7 in (1.70 meters)
• Rio Waida: 5 ft, 7 in (1.70 meters)
• Seth Moniz: 5 ft, 7 in (1.70 meters)
• Italo Ferreira: 5 ft, 7 in (1.70 meters)
• Caio Ibelli: 5 ft, 6 in (1.67 meters)

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Nothing fuels more controversy in and outside the water than awarding scores for waves ridden in competitive surfing.

Whether a surfer wins or loses their heat by a narrow margin, there's always someone unhappy with the judging.

It could be the athletes themselves, the fans, the beach spectators, online viewers, the sponsors, the coaches, or the surfers' families.

The ultimate goal of professional surfing judges is to be objective in a subjective sports performance.

It's a paradox - trying to be rational and analytical in an activity that is, by nature, non-mathematical and led by non-linear variables like originality, creativity, fluidity, etc.

It's like judging an art competition.

That said, there will always be someone with a different opinion on how to score a critical, one-maneuver-only, and a multiple-turn ride.

Which one deserves a higher score? How do you compare degrees of difficulty in similarly ridden waves?

If we exclude the conspiracy theories that support the idea that the World Surf League (WSL) and its judges either:

1. Benefit surfers competing in their home waters;
2. Favor a balanced list of winning nationalities;
3. Back either veteran, wildcards, up-and-coming surfers;
4. Try to postpone the crowning of world champions;
5. Purposedly harm someone's scoreboard;
6. Push athletes backed by the event's sponsor;
7. Or subconsciously favor the popular surfers;

If we can get past these misconceptions, we must accept that in order to get surf contests going and enjoy watching two or three surfers competing for a trophy or title, we must have humans evaluating humans based on predefined criteria.

If we cannot accept that surf judges can get it right most of the time and occasionally make mistakes, then the only thing we should do is refrain from watching them in action.

Comparing Waves

A surf judging panel has several tools and methods for ensuring each score thrown is as fair as possible.

One of these tools is video.

The WSL video replay system allows judges to examine details in finer detail by showing two waves ridden by two contestants side by side on screen.

Often, two ridden waves raise doubts in the judging booth.

At first glance, one of these waves could very well be over or underscored, especially when there's an identical ride afterward.

These doubts generate conflicts and anger.

The last thing a competitive sports organization needs is distrust from the fans and the athletes.

That is why the surf judging criteria and the official rulebook should always be a work in progress.

Any minor detail that can help us get near bulletproof scoreboards is welcome.

Should Wave Selection Count? The Bull Riding Format

Controversial heats spark a lot of debate and exchange of views.

Apart from the heated arguments - some of them too nationalistic to deserve to be highlighted - there are always insightful contributions.

One of the most referred to is the need to put more emphasis on wave selection.

Should an air reverse be judged similarly on a small and bigger wave? Can a last-second effort on a mushy wave overturn a heat?

Some fans believe waves pro surfers paddle into should also be scored.

Let's take the example of Professional Bull Riders (PBR).

Professional bull riding is judged by two judges who observe both the rider and the bull, scoring them individually on their performance.

The rider is scored from 0 to 25, as is the bull, resulting in a combined total score with a maximum of 100 points.

During the ride, the rider must keep one hand, called the free arm, in the air for at least eight seconds, with any slapping resulting in a no score.

Judges assess the rider's balance, control, and synchronization with the bull, awarding extra points if the rider spurs the bull to encourage more intense bucking.

Stock points contribute to the total score and are determined by the difficulty of the bull's performance.

Bulls that exhibit agile, dynamic movements, such as spinning and bucking close to the chute gates, score higher than those with simpler movements.

Judges evaluate the bull's style, agility, speed, and the raw power that can quickly dislodge a rider.

Unlike in acrobatics or wave pools, where the floor and the waves are constant variables equally available for everyone, ocean surfing relies on the quality of the waves.

By putting more emphasis on rewarding wave selection, judges could increase the dilution of minor judging "mistakes" and optimize the fairness, accuracy, and quality of the scoreboard.

In the end, more variables would translate into better judgments.

Averaging the Highest Three Waves

So, if more judging variables improve the quality of the evaluation, could a scoreboard based on the best three waves better reflect a surfer's performance?

The truth is that the three-wave scoring system is not new. The ASP World Tour (1983-2014) had it in place until 2002.

Actually, Shane Beschen is the only surfer in history to have scored a Perfect 30.

In 1996, at the Billabong Kirra Pro, the San Clemente regular footer rode three Perfect 10-point waves in a Round 3 heat against Brazilian powerhouse Fábio Gouveia.

One reason the highest three-wave format was replaced by the two-wave scores was to increase and put pressure on performance.

The fewer the tallied waves, the more athletes must surf to get an excellent total score. Simultaneously, it is thought to increase competitiveness and change places throughout the heat.

Is there a way that has never been tried? What about averaging the best three (or four) waves?

If you increase the number of waves scored and then take the average of all the waves scored, you'll find the winner based on the overall performance in a heat.

Publicly Detailing Event Judging Criteria

There is one more thing we could do to increase the transparency of judging criteria.

As we all know, the formula for judging heats varies slightly from one event to another based on the type of wave and conditions on offer.

At Pipeline, judges want to see deep barreling rides; at Lower Trestles, they want to see all-around surfing with a mix of rail-to-rail and aerial performances.

However, fans at home and at the beach are not always reminded of that.

There should be an extra effort to communicate the judges' requirements for the day or a particular heat.

They should publicly disclose, in more detail, what exactly they need to see from the surfers to award high scores.

Will roundhouse cutbacks be favored over floaters? Will air reverse maneuvers score more than frontside or backside snaps?

Does a combination of barrels and airs top everything else? What exactly can a surfer do to get a Perfect 10?

Last but not least, should a judge from country X be throwing scores at a surfer from country X?

Should a judge from country Y award scores in a potential world title heat involving a surfer from country Z, knowing if eventual implications in another potential world title heat involving a surfer from his country?

As with everything in life, common sense should prevail, and there's definitely room for improvement and fine-tuning.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Cole Houshmand and Caitlin Simmers have claimed the 2024 Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach.

The two first-time Bells winners were the ones to beat on finals day as the Bowl dished up semi-clean surf in the three-to-four-foot range.

It was a historical day of competition, with a number of firsts taking place on the 61st finals day at Bells and the 50th with Rip Curl as the title partner. 

San Clemente locals and childhood friends Cole Houshmand and Griffin Colapinto came into the final of the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach, guaranteed to make history.

With either of them winning, they'd be the first Californian male to hoist the Bell since Richie Collins in 1992, and with the form they displayed, it was either surfer that could take it.

Houshmand started strong, posting a 7.00 (out of a possible 10) point ride on his opener and finally backing it up with a 6.50 for a 13.50 (out of a possible 20) two-wave total.

Colapinto, who was the form surfer of the event, struggled to get going until the last few minutes of the match-up, and although he started to build, it wasn't enough to overcome Houshmand.

Houshmand got the win, becoming only the seventh goofy-footer to win the event in 61 years, joining names like Occhilupo, Carrol, Hardman, Lynch, Wilkinson and Ferreira. 

"I'm speechless, and this is unreal," said Houshmand.

"I honestly don't think it's gonna sink in for a while. I've been visualizing this every day for the last two weeks, ringing that Bell, and I guess it works."

"I'm excited for the whole year. My biggest goal was to make it to Fiji as a Rookie, and now I have my sights set on a bigger goal.

"The Cut is out of my vision, and there are bigger things for me to achieve now. The year really starts now."

"I told Griffin, 'This is what we've dreamed of since we were kids competing,' and I really wanted to enjoy it."

"It's not often you get a Final with your best friend and mentor, but then again, there's no one I want to beat more and no one I'd rather lose to. This is probably the best day of my life."

Houshmand came into the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach sitting below the Mid-season Cut Line with an equal ninth as his best result in his rookie season.

His maiden CT victory has rocketed him 18 spots up to eighth on the rankings within aim of the WSL Final 5 heading into the second half of the season.

Women's Final

Coming into the Final sitting in first and second on the rankings, whoever claimed the win between Caitlin Simmers and Johanne Defay would leave Bells Beach wearing the yellow Leader Jersey as world no. 1.

CT veteran Dafay came into the Final with the most momentum, and it showed as she took control early.

With two mid-range scores, Defay held the lead for almost the entire Final.

With just three minutes remaining, Simmers took a set wave with priority, scoring a 6.10 to get herself back into contention.

With less than one minute remaining, Simmers forced Defay into a closeout, leaving Simmers out the back with sets rolling in.

Taking her last chance with seconds remaining, Simmers put together a range of critical maneuvers to score a 6.67, receiving the last-minute news that she had won her maiden Bell on the sand after the buzzer. 

"I was just thinking on my last wave, 'This could be it,'" said Simmers.

"In this sport, you always have to believe in yourself because that stuff happens. I still don't believe it, and it doesn't feel real."

"At this high of a level, you have to figure out ways to have an edge. There's so much for me to think about, and it feels amazing to get the win."

"This wave is really difficult to work out, so it feels awesome. Yeah, wow, No. 1 in the world sounds great."

Simmers made history today, becoming the youngest woman to ever win at Bells.

Caitlin took out her maiden final at Bells Beach and her second Final of the year after winning stop no. 1 at Pipeline.

Simmers rings the Bell as world no. 1 and wears the yellow Leader Jersey heading into the Western Australia Margaret River Pro.

2024 Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach | Finals

Men

1. Cole Houshmand (USA) 13.50 
2. Griffin Colapinto (USA) 12.80

Women

1. Caitlin Simmers (USA) 12.77
2. Johanne Defay (FRA) 11.60

At 32, Laura Enever is slowly building a name in women's big wave surfing. And to make her vlogger debut on YouTube, the Australian chose Cloudbreak.

Despite assuming she is scared of big waves, Laura Enever doesn't let fear get in the way when an opportunity knocks.

The Australian's big-wave riding done-and-dusted checklist includes some of the world's heaviest surf breaks.

She's also fresh from breaking a Guinness World Record for the largest ever paddled-in wave by a woman at Outer Reef on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii.

Enever's recent session at Cloudbreak coincided with one of the most epic days at the Fijian spot.

A last-minute decision to get to Tavarua put the regular footer in the epicenter of a historic swell, which lit up Second Reef Cloudbreak.

"To be honest, when I saw the first bombs come through in the morning, I wasn't sure I was going to make it off the boat," revealed Laura Enever.

"I ended up watching for a while, then giving it a crack! I got to be front row to some of the craziest tubes I have ever seen."

Wild Ride and Lost Earring

Laura was the only woman in the channel at the time.

So, the Australian pro surfer eventually paddled out when the perfect blue cylinders followed each other running down the line.

Enever ended up scoring a few bombs, including a massive and steep 20-foot-plus ride that was too much to handle.

As a result of the wipeout, the Australian lost an earring and got pounded by the following set.

"What a wild trip it was. I can't wait to give it another dig when I get the opportunity."

"This wave humbles you and makes you work for it. Hours and hours spent in the water, hold downs, bouncing off the reef, whiplash."

"It takes a lot to keep paddling back out when things aren't working out, but it feels good when you keep trying, and it does."

"I'm excited to get more comfortable on my big boards and try to take some different lines next time."

Wind is a fascinating weather phenomenon. It is a variable constantly trying to find a perfect balance on a planetary scale.

Wind only exists because there are differences in air pressure between two or more points.

It's like a balloon - if you squeeze it, the air moves or circulates from high to low pressure.

If Earth were perfectly flat and smooth, wind would be nearly nonexistent.

The sun would heat up the planet almost uniformly, and the global temperature differences would be residual.

However, due to the presence of multiple surfaces (water and land), elevations (mountains, buildings, etc.) and depressions, and numerous organic materials (grass, soil, sand, rock, etc.), solar heating's interaction with the Earth is randomly dispersed.

Some zones will be warmer than others. Thus, columns of air will rise asymmetrically across the globe.

If you stick a needle through a balloon, the highly compressed air inside will quickly move toward the area with less pressure.

So, the behavior of winds is always determined by the need to level out pressure, to find stability, and to find a zero-sum.

It's the equivalent of the property of opposites in math, i.e., the opposite of a number a is denoted as -a and is defined as the number that, when added to a, yields zero.

Example: -5 + 5 = 0

Diurnal Winds

To understand how offshore and onshore wind work and their dynamics, we must address the concept of diurnal winds.

Diurnal winds are local wind patterns that develop due to the everyday variation in temperature between daytime heating and nighttime cooling.

These winds typically occur daily and are influenced by factors such as solar radiation, land-sea temperature contrasts, and topography.

Diurnal winds are a significant component of atmospheric circulation in many regions and can have important implications for weather, climate, and local ecosystems.

They can take place on mountain slopes and valleys, coastlines, and inland areas with large temperature gradients between different surface types, such as forests, deserts, or urban areas.

The two primary types of diurnal winds are:

1. Land Breeze

Land breezes typically happen at night when the land cools more rapidly than the adjacent water.

As the air over the land cools, it becomes denser and sinks, creating a higher pressure area over the land.

Meanwhile, warmer air over the water rises, creating a lower pressure area.

The pressure gradient between the land and the water causes a breeze to blow from the land towards the sea, known as a land breeze.

2. Sea Breeze

Sea breezes occur during the day when the land heats up more quickly than the water.

As the air over the land warms, this thermal, an upward current of warm air, becomes less dense and rises, creating a lower pressure area over the land.

Cooler, denser air over the water moves inland to fill the void, creating a breeze that blows from the sea towards the land, known as a sea breeze.

Offshore Wind in the Morning

Offshore winds in the morning are not the norm, but they happen a few times yearly.

Due to specific geographical and geological features, winds blowing from land to ocean are frequent in the early hours on some coastlines.

Offshore winds often have a significant impact on waves.

As they blow across swells, they tend to groom the wave faces and hold them longer before breaking, making them superb conditions for surfers.

As we've seen above, offshore breeze can only occur if the land temperature is still low compared to the ocean temperature.

Some mornings, the land temperature can still be low until noon, resulting in a longer land breeze.

Onshore winds tend to prevail in the afternoons when the local land is already heated by the sun.

Offshore winds are more observed in the evening and morning and are more frequent during winter when the land temperature is lower.

In conclusion, thermal air rises in the late morning or afternoon, moves at higher altitudes toward low-pressure areas above the ocean, sinks toward the sea surface, and then moves again at low altitudes toward the shore, generating onshore winds.

In the evening and early morning, the flow described above is reversed, creating offshore winds.

But in the end, it all depends on how quickly land and water heat up and cool down.

Land heats up much faster than water during the day, but it also loses heat faster at night.

This temperature difference is what creates the land-sea breeze.

Wind Forecasting

However, this equilibrium cannot be predetermined or predicted in the long term in any location.

The offsets in air pressure are so many and so sensitive that a subtle shift in the weather variables can alter the wind pattern for a given place.

It is possible to forecast the behavior of winds for a few days on a specific beach, but it is impossible to set a precise pattern for the upcoming months or years.

For instance, more or less recurring events like El Niño and La Niña can only be predicted several months to a year in advance.

Wind speed and direction are constantly in motion and mutation, and even human activity and unexpected natural events like volcanoes may change their more or less expected course.

Oaxaca is one of Mexico's surfing treasure states. The south-facing territory receives privileged swells from the Pacific with a rugged coastline that produces all types of waves.

It's hard to believe that just 150 miles (240 kilometers) west of Puerto Escondido's Playa Zicatela, the Mexican Pipeline, there's such wonder of Nature like Punta Conejo.

We're talking about a longboarder's dream point break that can take surfers on a meditative and life-changing 300-500-meter ride.

Unlike its thunderous beach break sister, Punta Conejo is an elegant, smooth, and perfectly peeling right-hander that will get any wave rider paddling out, no matter the size, weather, or water temperature.

It's not the only pristine surf break available near Salina Cruz.

It's part of a nearby premier list of luxury surf spots, including Punta Chivo, Playa Abierta, La Ventosa, Punta Chipehua, and Playa Bamba.

Punta Conejo works best with an S swell and light cross-shore NE-E winds. Nevertheless, it also handles N-NW wind well.

But it's the ride that makes it unforgettable and addictive.

On a good day, you'll be greeted with a relatively fast ride and plenty of workable wave faces and lips.

Occasionally, you may find a barreling opportunity in the inside section.

The Mexican point break is relatively isolated, which could be good and bad news simultaneously.

Because it has no direct roads or parking lots, you'll probably need a four-wheel drive and a local guide to reach Punta Conejo.

Luckily, the remoteness also brings some quietness and a less crowded lineup, even though, with the right conditions, you won't probably surf alone.

The Oaxaca longboarders' hotspot works best at low tide and when Southern Hemisphere swells hit the coast from May to October.

In those conditions, you witness this natural surf machine pump perfect lines in the two-to-six-foot range.

Threatened Forever

Despite the importance of surfing for the local economy and the sensitive ecossystem that gravitates around it, Punta Conejo has been under constant serious threat from harmful human activities.

Non-governmental surf organization Save the Waves Coalition has been working for years to protect this stretch of coastline.

In 2019, the activists launched campaign #SalvemosPuntaConejo to stop the construction of a new industrial port project in the vicinity.

Save the Waves feared the renowned surf break could be destroyed and raised awareness for the need to protect the area around Punta Conejo.

The NGO worked with local entities to find alternative solutions to the port project that would have a lower impact on the surf ecosystem and the local economies that depend on it.

Technical studies were developed to propose the establishment of a Ramsar Site, a UNESCO initiative that lists wetlands of international importance.

However, in October 2022, Punta Conejo was hit hard by an ecological disaster.

A fuel oil spill originating from a Pemex offshore platform devastated beaches in Salina Cruz, heavily impacting the point break along with other areas.

The oil slick stretched for at least six miles (10 kilometers), reaching beaches like Playa Brasil, Playa Azul, and Playa Guelaguichi.

Reports also documented oiled birds as far as 65 miles (105 kilometers) away.

The spill significantly affected tourism, fishing, and the local fauna, raising concerns about Pemex's environmental practices and aging infrastructure.

Local authorities closed the beaches to tourism and fishing activities. The exact volume of oil spilled remains unknown.

Now, Save The Waves Coalition and local partners (Reservas de Surf Mexico, Wildcoast, and Union de Surfistas y Salvavidas de Salina Cruz) are proposing the first-ever coastal "Áreas de Protección de Flora y Fauna" (Flora and Fauna Protection Areas) in Oaxaca.

The Punta Conejo Protected Area will preserve and safeguard:

• 3,503 acres of land;
• 1,277 acres of mangrove forest;
• 500+ fishermen and salt workers benefiting from the nearby lagoons;
• 40+ species of bird;
• 6.5 miles of coastline;
• 4 local communities;
• 4 species of turtle, including the endangered olive ridley;
• 3 surf breaks: Punta Conejo, Punta Chivo, and Punta Escondida;

Punta Conejo's Guardian Angel

At the heart of this struggle is a local partner, friend, and defender of Punta Conejo: Uriel Camacho.

Uriel is originally from Salina Cruz, one of the towns nearest to Punta Conejo.

One of the first locals to ever surf, Punta Conejo was where Uriel and his friends learned to ride waves almost 30 years ago.

At the time, there were no tourists in the area and only a few local surfers like Uriel, who surfed the magical point break.

Despite the 3.7-mile (six-kilometer) walk from the nearest bus stop, it was the only surf spot he paddled out to for years.

"I want to see Punta Conejo protected because it is a wonder of surfing, not only in Mexico but in the entire world," explained Camacho.

"Our livelihoods depend on this ecosystem. Punta Conejo is part of our lives. We love this place with all our hearts."

"It must be preserved and protected so that it can be enjoyed by all human beings forever."

He has seen firsthand how the natural beauty of the coastline has benefited the community - the small local markets are thriving due to the visitors and surf guide services providing sustainable revenue.

Surf tourism has also positively impacted the younger generations, with a new wave of surf fever among the local community.

Uriel's commitment to the Punta Conejo Campaign is unmatched.

He is helping lead the local effort to protect Punta Conejo and the surrounding environment.

Today, Camacho is a surf guide and surf photographer in the area.

With two daughters, the Mexican has already taught his eldest to surf Punta Conejo and hopes the point can be enjoyed by future generations.

Punta Conejo, Mexico | ID and X-Ray

Location: Punta Conejo, Salina Cruz, Oaxaca, Mexico
Type of Wave: Right-Hand Point Break
Length: 300-500 yards (300-500 meters)
Best Swell Direction: S
Best Wave Size: 2-6 Feet
Best Wind Direction: NE-E, N-NW
Best Tide: Low
Best Time to Surf: Wet Season (May-October)
Skill Level: Intermediate and Advanced
Best Board: Longboard, Funboard, and All-Around Shortboard
Crowd: Moderate
Water Quality: Good
Hazards: Locals
Bottom: Sand
Water Temperature: 66-84 °F (19-29 °C)
Getting There: Paddle Out

There is an informal universal rule in the surfing world that tells us that he who discovers a new surf break or secret spot has the naming rights to it.

The world isn't endless - it's finite and limited to the planet's boundaries. As a result, the number of surfable zones is also restricted.

With the advent of Google Earth and later Google Maps, surf travel's exploration factor and adventure elements were somehow cut short.

The digital world has undermined the magic of discovering a new wave, like when "The Endless Summer" crew unveiled the perfect right-hander at Cape St. Francis in South Africa.

Finding a secret spot is genuinely phenomenal.

It's exciting to know that you're about to or have just ridden a wave nobody else has ever cherished.

Despite all the print and digital mapping of the world's surf breaks, there is always a tiny corner, hidden behind a rock, where you can be the first and find freedom in an empty, exclusive wave.

Naming Rights to New Surf Breaks

The pioneers were the lucky ones.

Every time they discovered a new wave, peak, or surf zone, they had the right to name them.

Naming a surf break is an exercise of freedom and creativity - you can basically choose whatever you wish.

When it comes to associating a wave with a word or a series of words, several trends or concepts are taken into consideration.

The most popular are based on the following criteria:

1. Geography

It's common to name surf breaks after where they're located and landmarks in their surroundings.

It could be a village, a temple, a city, a road, or a neighborhood.

They're generally the less creative and funny.

Examples: Mundaka, Kirra, Bells Beach, Ribeira d'Ilhas, Jeffreys Bay, Church, Country Club, Cortes Bank, T Street, etc.

2. Ego/Tribute

Some waves are named after people.

They could be the person who discovered it or someone a local community or foreign surfer wants to pay tribute to:

Examples: Lance's Right, Bruce's Beauties, Corbyn's Cove, Dino's Left, Lindie's Point, Velzyland, etc.

3. Connotation

Many surf break nomenclatures get their inspiration from connotative ideas, items, or objects.

They could be - or not - directly related to the spot in question but generally invoke something in addition to its literal or primary meaning.

Examples: Apocalypse, Pipeline, Supertubos, Ghost Tree, etc.

4. Denotation

The surfing world map is also full of spots with terms directly connected to their surroundings.

They are similar to the geographically inspired surf spot designations but sometimes with a subtle twist.

Examples: Beach House, Casino, Cobblestones, Coconuts, etc.

5. Humor

Surfers often have an acute sense of humor. Or maybe not.

But at least they try to be funny and comic. Finding new surf breaks is a great way to put fine irony to the test.

Examples: Boilers, Boneyards, Bunkers, Destroyers, Gas Chambers, Graveyards, No Name, Hippies, Leftovers, Gums, Boobs etc.

6. Local Culture

There's nothing like honoring local culture and spiritual beliefs than naming a brand new surf spot using the local dialect and languages.

It could be the name of a God or Goddess, king or queen, angel or evil creature. Unfortunately, these designations are rare.

Example: Teahupoo.

7. Mood and Mechanics

The naming trend inspired by the surf spot's behavior is extremely popular among surfers.

It's also a way of characterizing the type of wave you should encounter way before you arrive on-site and paddle out.

Examples: Racing Lefts, The Wedge, Freight Trains, Backdoor.

Soon-To-Be-Discovered Surf Break Name Suggestions

Now that we've dissected the core and anatomy of the wave naming process, it's to suggest a few cool titles.

Have you found a secret spot? Are you unsure how you should name it?

Look no further. Here are our coolest suggestions:

Coral Caverns
Reef Reverie
Neptune's Nook
Surfer's Sanctuary
Olas del Oro
Foam Frenzy
Aqua Arena
Curl Cove
Breaker's Bliss
Closeout Combat
Palma Pacifica
Current Cadence
Barrel Bliss
SRF-Land
Surfer's Solace
Espuma Especial
Briney Beat
Splash Sojourn
Dreamy Dunes
Luna Llena
Shimmering Shallows
Misty Mirage
Echo Echo
Sunlit Surge
Velvet Vortex
Sol del Sur
Silken Swell
Pearl Perch
Sunset Sound
Goofyland
Shimmering Surf
Surfer's Army
Radiant Reef
Mystic Maelstrom
Ola Ocaso

Big waves don't just appear out of nowhere. The formation of abnormally large swells is a sum of layers, normally invisible to the human eye.

They start their journey in the ocean thousands of miles away from the coastline, where powerful storms brew and transfer their energy into the ocean in the form of groundswells.

Meteorologists, weather forecasters, and surfers alike closely monitor satellite data to monitor the development of these swells.

Four key elements come together to create massive waves:

1. Wind speed;
2. Wind duration;
3. Fetch;
4. Bathymetry;

When strong winds blow over a vast stretch of ocean for an extended period, they transfer their energy into the water, generating XXL swells.

So, if you get a 60-mile-per-hour (96-kilometer-per-hour) wind blowing nonstop for five days over 2,000 miles (3,218 kilometers) of ocean, you've got two good ingredients ready for the big wave cake.

Once generated, these wave trains travel thousands of miles across the ocean, gaining momentum along the way.

But how does wind energy translate into waves? And can they reach incredible heights only on some surf breaks?

Imagine the ocean's surface as a vast playground where the wind pushes and pulls the water, creating ripples that grow into waves.

These surface waves carry the storm's energy across the ocean, building in size and power.

Some of these storm-generated swells will then encounter the perfect conditions near the shore to produce near-shore XXL waves at places like Jaws, Teahupoo, Mullaghmore Head, Shipstern Bluff, Todos Santos, Cortes Banks, Mavericks, Nazaré, and several other surf breaks.

However, before these humungous waves break, they need to harness energy as they make their way to the beach.

The Slinky Effect

In deep water, even when the wind stops blowing, the amount of energy in the wave is fixed and conserved.

Now, the energy travels, but the water itself does not. The water is moving in a small circular motion, like if you play with a Slinky.

You can take it and flex it, and you can see that wave motion going up and down, but the metal or plastic part only moves a little bit.

If the wave energy below the surface reaches the bottom, the seafloor acts like a speed bump, slowing the wave down.

The exact amount of energy then gets compressed as the wavelength decreases. The only place for that energy to go is up, and the wave height intensifies.

All of the energy for that wave will be stored between the surface and a depth of about half the wavelength.

When the ocean depth reaches about half of the wavelength, the wave transforms into a shallow waterway.

So, as these large swells cross the ocean and reach the shore, they encounter various obstacles and features that shape their size and intensity.

One crucial factor is the underwater topography, or bathymetry, which determines how waves behave as they approach the coastline.

As the wave encounters the bottom and rises, its potential energy is converted into powerful kinetic energy that finally explodes as a breaking wave.

Channeling Energy: The Role of Underwater Canyons

In some regions, underwater canyons act as natural amplifiers, funneling wave energy into a concentrated force.

Take, for example, the Nazaré Canyon off the coast of Portugal, carved by ancient rivers and tectonic activity.

As waves enter this 230-kilometer narrow canyon, their energy becomes focused, creating the perfect conditions for giant waves to form.

Even though the underwater canyon is very deep, the waves have yet to touch the bottom, so they don't slow down.

Also, the energy from waves moving near the edges of the canyon gets pushed inside, making the waves even stronger.

The seafloor rises sharply near the shore, acting like a wall that squeezes all the wave energy.

It's like blocking most highway lanes so all the traffic goes through just one.

Refraction and Amplification

Near the shoreline, the seafloor rises abruptly, creating a natural barrier that compresses the wave energy.

This phenomenon, known as refraction, bends the waves and focuses/converges their energy into a single point.

At spots like Mavericks in Half Moon Bay, California, underwater reefs further amplify the waves, transforming them into towering walls of water.

Finally, the moment arrives when the waves unleash their full fury upon the coastline.

As they approach shallow waters, the waves slow down, causing their height to increase dramatically.

The energy stored within the wave reaches its peak, culminating in a breathtaking display of power as the waves come crashing down.

When these monster waves collide with the shoreline, they can literally shake the very foundations of the Earth.

At Mavericks, the force of the waves is so immense that they shake the North American Plate itself and get recorded on seismographs.

"I'm at the lake. The wind is forecast to pick up through the day with some moderate gusts, but we have a small weather window to paddle. I think it's fine!" pings a WhatsApp message one late April morning.

It's from Cal Major, veterinary surgeon, SUP record holder, ocean advocate, and founder of the charity Seaful - she is standing by the shoreline at Crow Park as I make my way north to meet her.

I have dreamed of today's paddle for so long - six years, to be precise, since I first met Cal at the Women's Adventure Expo in Bristol in 2017, and she inspired me to believe in my own SUP dreams. 

A short time later, we are on the lake, and I am beaming.

After being injured and poorly for much of March and April, I have only just returned to paddling.

An outing with one of the UK's most inspiring endurance paddleboarders is the best medicine I could possibly ask for.

We are on Derwent Water (or Derwentwater), one of the Northern Lakes, which is the joint third largest lake of the ten we can paddle.

That said, it is significantly shorter than the other large lakes; compared to the thin "ribbon" lakes - including Windermere, Ullswater, and Coniston Water - it is unique in being much more of an oval shape.

There are two voluntary no-boating zones in place to protect feeding and breeding birds, which I think are important to respect.

The first is around Lord's Island on the eastern shore near Strandshag Bay, and the second is at Great Bay at the head of the lake in the south. 

The lake has four larger islands - St. Herbert's, Rampsholme, Lord's, and Derwent - as well as the smaller Otterbield, Lingholm, and Otter. 

Rampsholme Island's name is derived from the Old Norse "hrafns holmr," meaning "wild garlic island."

A Special Place

Launching from the shoreline a few minutes walk from the bustling market town of Keswick, we head towards the private Derwent Isle together.

Joseph Pocklington purchased the island, previously called Vicar's Island, in 1778 and built a house, boathouse, fort, and battery, holding regattas and mock battles as he fired his cannon across the lake.

William Wordsworth was not a fan of the house or Pocklington's intentions.

It is the only inhabited island on the lake; the National Trust (which owns the island) occasionally organizes visits via canoe: nationaltrust.org.uk.

In the distance, we can see the 451-meter peak of Cat Bells; it was described by Alfred Wainwright as "One of the great favorites, a family fell where grandmothers and infants can climb the heights together, a place beloved."

To our right are Isthmus Bay and Isthmus Wood, and to our left are the foreshore landings with the beautiful wooden Keswick Launch cruises and rowing boats.

Beyond that is the viewpoint on the 162-meter hill of Castlehead and Castlehead Wood.

"The lake is very special to me," says Cal.

"I've spent a lot of time here in Keswick and trained for my 2021 challenge around Scotland on Derwent Water."

The challenge she is referring to is her 10-week, 800-mile SUP adventure around the coast of Scotland, exploring our human connection to the sea and the wildlife that calls it home.

An extraordinary three-part documentary about the journey called "Scotland Ocean Nation," filmed by her partner James Appleton, has been streamed on STV Player.

In 2018, Cal was the first person to paddleboard from Land's End to John o'Groats, for which she holds a Guinness World Record for the fastest time.

She is also the founder of Seaful, a charity that helps more people reconnect with the ocean and waterways for their mental health and to nurture stewardship of our blue spaces through activities such as snorkeling, beach clean-ups, and paddleboarding.

I am very proud to be an ambassador for Seaful.

Our weather window comes to a close and after hot chocolate at Elm Cafe + Kombucha in Keswick, we say our goodbyes.

While exploring Keswick, I serendipitously meet Ali Phillips, with whom I later paddle on Buttermere.

Cal was the first paddleboarder I heard speak about the possibilities for adventure, joy, and ocean conservation back in 2017, and today, six years later, I finally had a chance to paddle with her.

It was absolutely worth the wait.

As I wrote earlier, Derwent Water holds a special place in my heart, too, as the lake where I took my first lesson on September 24, 2016, with Bo from Lake District Paddleboarding.

Launching from Keswick

We launched on the north-western shore near to Nichol End, where a few weeks after my morning with Cal, I meet the founder of Northern SUP Race Club, SUP coach, mother of three and personal trainer, Anna Little. 

Our plan was to launch from Kettlewell, a beach on the south-eastern shoreline.

However, Anna's van with her hardboard on top wouldn't fit under the barrier at the car park entrance, so we hastily changed to Plan B (because in the Lakes, you often need a Plan B!) and were fortunate enough to be allowed a parking spot in the marina's small car park.

It is late June, clouds are gathering across the blue sky, and the wind is picking up, so for much of the time, we keep in the shelter of the bay while we chat.

Having paddled a lot on the Northumberland coastline and as a successful SUP racer, Anna is no stranger to paddling into a headwind, and I admire her technique and strength.

"Over there is Friar's Crag, where my husband proposed to me," she says, smiling and pointing to a promontory south of Derwent Isle on the eastern shore, which has incredible views of the lake and the Jaws of Borrowdale.

According to writer John Ruskin, his first childhood memory was being brought to Friar's Crag by his nanny; a monument to him was erected here in 1900.

Ruskin later described the view as one of the finest in Europe.

Anna also visited the Lakes as a child with her family, staying on campsites in their small tourer caravan.

When her own boys were small, they would come for summer holidays on Ullswater and Derwent Water.

One of her favorite memories is towing them along behind her on a board - no wonder she is so strong!

Her eldest son James, 17, now races across the UK, and Joey, 15, and Charlie, 12, love paddleboarding and racing too.

While we are still a relatively new sport in the UK, I admire how coaches like Anna are nurturing the next generation of paddleboarders through clubs and racing, and personally for Anna at home, too.

Like Cal, they are creating an inspiring legacy.

Surrounded by Beauty

In mid-August, I return to the lake and launch from Kettlewell, heading south to Lodore Jetty, where I can see the famous Lodore Falls.

It's a sweet little bay, but be aware that it is a landing spot for the Keswick Launch.

I then return north towards Calfclose Bay, along the wooded shores of Barrow Point and Barrow Bay. 

I paddle from Calfclose Bay to St. Herbert's Island; once inhabited by a hermit called St. Herbert, it was a filming location for the 2016 adaptation of "Swallows and Amazons" and featured in my first book.

I stop to look at the beautiful Hundred Year Stone, a geometric sculpture carved from a glacial Borrowdale boulder by Peter Randall-Page to commemorate the centenary of the National Trust.

Rising up behind Keswick, I can see the majestic Skiddaw; at 931 meters, it is the fourth highest Wainwright in the Lake District, and its slopes are gradually turning purple with the heather.

Taking note of the no boating zone near Lord's Island, I journey along the lake towards Nichol End Marine, mindful always of Keswick Launch boats and self-hire cabin cruisers.

After a quick cup of tea at the lovely marina cafe and a chat with the very friendly staff, I head south along the western shore, exploring the view I first saw back in 2016 which so captured my heart and imagination.

Much of this shoreline is private (belonging to the Lingholm Estate), and public parking is very limited, making it quieter than the eastern shore.

I relish the peace, the woods, the coves, and the views across to Walla Crag, Great Wood, and Falcon Crag from the water.

According to the National Trust, you might spot red squirrels, roe deer, or even an otter here.

Along with St. Herbert's Island, which Eliza Lynn Linton described as "the sweetest of all," this is my favorite part of Derwent Water.

Food for the Soul

Beatrix Potter spent her summers from 1885 to 1907 on the Lingholm Estate and neighboring Fawe Park after her first visit to the Lakes in 1882, when she stayed at Wray Castle on Windermere.

The area inspired much of her writing, including "The Tale of Mrs Tiggy-Winkle," "The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin," and "The Tale of Benjamin Bunny."

The National Trust even has a photo of her sketching on the shore of St. Herbert's Island.

A passionate believer in conservation and a friend of Canon Hardwicke Rawnsley, one of the three founding members of the National Trust, Potter bequeathed the charity 4,000 acres of land and 14 farms upon her death in 1943.

Where the Derwentwater Walk meets the shoreline and at the Keswick Launch jetties, I chat to the cheery hikers and holidaymakers.

The lakeshore further south at Brandelhow has public access and is a special place for the National Trust, which was its first acquisition in the Lakes in 1902.

An oak sculpture called Entrust or "The Hands Sculpture" by local artist John Merrill commemorates this significant milestone.

Further south, Manesty Park was acquired five years later.

In Brandelhow Bay, you will also spot some large spoil heaps, left over from when Cat Bells was mined for silver, lead, and copper during the reign of Elizabeth I in the 16th century.

I have planned a sunset paddle from Crow Park, where I met Cal, so I return to Kettlewell to write up my notes and nip to Booths, a local supermarket in Keswick, for a picnic.

I love the gentle hum of a late summer evening here as locals and holidaymakers queue for the Theatre by the Lake and friends relax on the grass.

With the Keswick Launch safely moored, I launch again and paddle around Derwent Isle and Friar's Crag, momentarily pausing to look across the view that Ruskin described as creating "intense joy mingled with awe."

Derwent Water is often referred to as "The Queen of the Lakes" because of the way it's cradled by the surrounding fells and has welcomed generations of visitors to its shores.

Eliza Lynn Linton described Derwent Water as the "gem of the whole. Whatever there is of beauty special to the other districts is here in its ripest fullness."

Derwent Water will always be special to me.

A lake that quite literally changed the course of my life. It is a gem indeed and one I hope you will treasure, too.

Words by Jo Moseley | Stand-Up Paddleboarder and Author of "Stand-Up Paddleboarding in the Lake District"

The small fishing town of Bathsheba in Barbados is home to one of the most surprising right-hand reef breaks on the planet. Here's what makes Soup Bowl such an incredible wave.

The east coast of Barbados gets a lot of Atlantic winter swells and wind, too. However, if there's one surf spot that truly welcomes onshore breeze it's Soup Bowl.

The most easterly Caribbean island nation is cherished by the British Commonwealth and famous for its holiday resorts, clear blue water, and white sand beaches.

Interestingly, it owes its name to the Portuguese ocean explorers who claimed the island between 1533 and 1536.

The name "Barbados" originates from the Portuguese word "barbudos," which translates to "bearded men."

The designation stemmed from the observation of the lush vegetation on the island, particularly trees adorned with vines, which somehow resembled bearded faces.

A Hollow Barrel Breaking on a Boiling Reef

Barbados' legendary surfing venue has been characterized in many ways.

Some have called it a "mutant, backless slab" that has "the ability to turn a two-foot wind chop into a steep, highly shreddable 'bowl.'"

Others say that "when it's big, it can make your heart jump out in your throat."

Thankfully, thanks to the strong, constant trade winds that generate year-round swell on the windward coast and regular winter N-NE groundswells, Barbados is constantly blessed by above-average waves.

Soup Bowl is special, though.

It's a particularly powerful, intense, and hollow right-hander that challenges the world's best surfers with its vertical drops, thick bowls, and thunderous shut-down sections that work even with the regular onshore trade winds.

Believe it or not, 11-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater once hailed it as one of his top three waves.

The Floridian stressed that Soup Bowl has a "really good curve that allows all sorts of maneuvers and airs."

In 2005, after a magical session here, Slater was flabbergasted. "If I could repeat this day for the rest of my life, I would."

The Barbados wave had such an impact that it made the cover of the champion's biography, "Kelly Slater: For the Love."

The iconic break's name hides significant data.

Winter N swells help shape the curvy, bowl-like barreling section, while the strong local rips that show up hit the shallow reef sections, generating boiling whitewater that resembles a bubbling soup.

The locals know this Caribbean gem well and when to paddle for the right set, but the good news is that its consistency will distribute wealth fairly.

Pumping 355 Days a Year

The problem comes when too much gets too much to handle.

XXL waves normally greet surfers with painful experiences and irreversible equipment damage.

Another unavoidable variable is the army of urchins ready to attack on the inside, along with the omnipresent NE-E trade winds.

Soup Bowl can also be gentle with the newcomers to the sport.

During windless mornings on low tide, beginner surfers have a chance to improve and progress their skills at the famous Caribbean wave.

With nearly 355 days of surf and warm water, it's actually difficult to miss good waves.

Nevertheless, when it comes to wave height, Soup Bowl accommodated three main stages throughout the year:

• July-August: 2-3-foot waves;
• September-October: 3-6-foot waves;
• November-May: 15-foot-plus waves;

The tropical vibes are everywhere, from the palm tree standing tall near the shore to the friendly and welcoming social environment of Bathsheba.

The air and water temperatures are nearly constant all year round at 79 °F (26 °C).

Honoring the Island's Idols

Surfing in Barbados has a long history that dates back to the 1960s.

Wales-born Bill Thomson (1949-2017) founded the Barbados Surfing Association and initiated a series of competitive events on the island, culminating with the arrival of several World Surf League (WSL) contests, including the Thomo QS1000 and the Barbados Surf Pro.

The passing of local star Zander Venezia in the waves of Box by Box, a nearby spot just 1.1 miles (1.8 kilometers) north of Soup Bowl, inspired a new competition in his honor.

Live Like Zander Junior Pro in Loving Memory of Zander Venezia provides the platform for juniors to gain more experience at the world-class reef break while paying homage to one of the island's own.

"This event all started with an idea Zander had about having an event in Barbados, and I went along with Chris [Clarke] and said that I would help him," said Louis Venezia, Zander's father.

"Over a decade later, I feel really proud of what we've been able to put on. When I see kids who started coming here and competing against Zander, like Cole Houshmand and Kade Matson, they started here, and Soup Bowl helped mold their surfing in a world-class wave.

"Now I'm seeing them and the women like Caity [Simmers] surf Sunset, and it's amazing."

"We're welcoming the next kids and just want to show them what Zander was all about, so it's a very special time for all of us."

Soup Bowl, Barbados | ID and X-Ray

Location: Soup Bowl, Bathsheba, Barbados
Type of Wave: Right-Hand Reef Break
Length: 50 yards (50 meters)
Best Swell Direction: NE-SE
Best Wave Size: 3-10 Feet
Best Wind Direction: W
Best Tide: All
Best Time to Surf: Dry Season (November-May)
Skill Level: Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced
Best Board: All-Around Shortboard
Crowd: Moderate
Water Quality: Good
Hazards: Urchins and Shallow Inside Section
Bottom: Coral with Limestone Reef
Water Temperature: 79 °F (26 °C)
Getting There: Paddle out